Of all the questions we answer before a climb, this is the one where the truth most outperforms the expectation. People picture ration packs, energy gels and a week of grim chewing.

Let us be the operator that finally answers this properly. You have read about the routes and the altitude and the training, and somewhere around midnight you typed the real question into Google: what about the toilets?

Over the past weeks we have compared Kilimanjaro, honestly, one mountain at a time, with the seven great treks and climbs it shares the world's daydreams with: Everest Base Camp, the Inca Trail, Mont Blanc, Elbrus, Aconcagua, Mount Kenya and its neighbour Meru. Every one of those pieces answered the same question: this one, or that one?

This is the great dinner-table debate of world trekking, and it is really a choice between two opposite prizes. Kilimanjaro gives you a summit of your own: the highest point in Africa, under your boots, earned. Everest Base Camp gives you an audience with the king: a two-week walk through the greatest mountain range on earth to stand at the foot of the highest mountain of all.

The final comparison in this series is the closest to our hearts, because these two mountains share a horizon. Mount Meru stands barely seventy kilometres from Kilimanjaro, close enough that from Meru's summit ridge at dawn you watch the sun rise directly behind the Roof of Africa, floating on the clouds across the plain.

Two of the most famous walks on earth, one adventure budget, and a decision that keeps coming up at dinner tables everywhere: the Roof of Africa, or the road to Machu Picchu?

There is no official public register of deaths on Kilimanjaro, so treat any precise figure you read online with caution. What is commonly reported is this: tens of thousands of people climb the mountain every year, and in a typical year a small number of deaths are recorded among climbers, most linked to severe altitude illness or to underlying heart conditions revealed by exertion at altitude.

Before any numbers, one honest thing needs saying. On some climbs, tips are not a thank-you, they are the wage. Crews on cut-price expeditions can depend on tips to reach a living income, which quietly turns your gratitude into the payroll and puts the welfare of the crew on your conscience instead of the operator's books.

Kilimanjaro is five climates stacked on top of each other. You start warm and humid in the rainforest, cross open moorland where the sun burns and the wind bites, walk an alpine desert that swings from hot noon to freezing night, and finish in arctic conditions on summit night, well below freezing with wind on top.

John Evance's attempt has a twist that makes it more interesting than the clock alone. Rather than starting at the Marangu or Umbwe gates, where most previous record attempts have begun

The Marangu Route suits the climber who genuinely prefers a hut to a tent, who is climbing in the wetter months and wants a roof each night, or who is watching the budget. It is a reasonable choice for a first climb too, provided you take the six-day version so your body has the time it needs to adjust. If comfort and simplicity matter more to you than scenic variety, Marangu has real and lasting appeal.

A mountain on the equator, crowned with ancient ice, and in our lifetime it's slipping away. Why Kilimanjaro has glaciers, why they're vanishing, and why this may be one of the last generations to stand beside them.