Day six. The climb to Barafu Camp. The final camp before summit night. The point at which the mountain stops being beautiful and starts being serious.

Kilimanjaro is not a technical climb. It does not require mountaineering experience. It does not require exceptional fitness. It requires the ability to walk uphill for six to eight hours per day across eight consecutive days.

The overall Kilimanjaro summit success rate is approximately 65 percent. You will see this number cited repeatedly in guides and operator websites, often without much context.

A rush of excitement so powerful I actually punched the air in my kitchen. And then, approximately four seconds later, a wave of absolute terror that made me sit down and stare at the wall for a good three minutes.